Monday, February 28, 2011

24 hours in the most spiritual party city of India.

After a morning at the Qatb Minar, we headed to Indira Gandhi National Airport and hopped a plane (Spice Jet Airlines) and made the short flight to Varanasi, located on the River Ganges.  Besides producing some of the finest silk in India, and being an artistic hot bed full of poets, artists, and musicians (Ravi Shankar was born here),  Varanasi is the single holiest sight in the Hindu faith.  According to legend and scripture, Lord Shiva himself founded the city, and it was on the sacred banks of the Ganges that he ascended to heaven.  As such, every hotel, shop, and alley way features ornate idols, temples, and shrines.

 

















The Ganges, often referred to as Mother Ganga, is regarded as a gateway to heaven, and as such, three different practices occur on a daily basis :
Firstly, the banks are the site of some 300 daily cremations. The sacred water of the Ganges is believe to have the power to wash away one's sins, and for this reason, people long to be cremated here in hopes of achieving Moksha, Hinduism's ultimate escape from the cycle of reincarnation.

However, the cleansing powers of the river are not reserved solely for the deceased.  Every morning, thousands of locals and pilgrims descend upon the banks and take a dip.  As well as the religious aspect, there are many myths various healing powers of the water.  Being that it was sunrise in late January and the Ganges is one of the most polluted rivers in the world, Sabrina and I passed in favor of staying warm on the boat. However, it's hard to imagine that there isn't something special about the Ganges, considering that locals claim no one has ever fallen ill from bathing in it.

The third and by far most spectacular occurrence on the banks of the Ganges is the sacred ritual of Aarti, when young Brahmin (priests) perform a series of songs, prayers, and fire rituals to worship the Ganges. This occurs every night, and, as the rituals are performed to Mother Ganga, the best view is obviously from a boat.  I believe we have a clip!



Many thanks to our fantastic guide Rohit (who we didn't exactly hire, but I think was part of the hotel package).  Not only did he take us around the city (which is entirely narrow backstreets and shortcuts) but he also hooked us up with a private concert with two music professors from the University.  While I would have been thrilled seeing a concert in a concert hall with a thousand other people, I was absolutely beside myself sitting in a small room with just a Sitar and a Tabla player, talking about the Indian Classical approach to improvisation and having demonstrations.  It is well known that many musicians, particularly in jazz history, have at one time or another studied this approach, which is very different to Western concepts.  If I ever have the fortune of living in India for any length of time,  I will certainly pool my Rupees and buy/rent a Sitar and study this amazing art form.

Well, the adventure is almost at an end, but we still have a few hours on a train before we get to our final destination, the city of Agra, home of the legendary Taj Mahal!

1 comment:

  1. its official. you are WAY overdue. whats happening in donyland??

    ReplyDelete